Marsh Harbor, Abacos

Hello!  5/30/2026

Update:

We are still anchored in March Harbor, Bahamas. We seem to get stuck in places for a week or two, but worse things could be happening. My sister is joining us June 1st and will help with the passage north. This past week was fairly quiet for us, along with a few boat projects and chores we did have some fun.

The format this week is: The good and the not so good! 

Attempting the impossible before coffee

Friday, we got up early to change out the headsail, because there was no wind. Wind usually increases during the day so early morning was the best time for this task. Our current headsail is very large. Al wanted to put on the smaller Yankee, headsail for the upcoming trip to Norfolk Virginia. It was no problem getting the sail down but once on deck we needed to fold it and put it in a bag. The sail is stiff, heavy and huge. Usually, it’s laid out on a grass lawn to fold. Without coffee, I was not in my usual, “we can do anything!” frame of mind. It seemed impossible. And actually, it was impossible. We ended up sort of folding it and wrangling it into a ball with lines, ratchets and straps then picking it up with a halyard to get it on the cabin top. When we pull into a slip Monday, we’ll get it onshore, folded and into its bag. For now, it is a hilarious looking package hanging in front of the mast. Our friends at home got quite a laugh at the photo of it. Sometimes, we do the best we can.

Back to the beach

On Thursday we took a ferry to Nippers on Guana Cay to eat lunch and swim again at the fabulous Atlantic beach. The wind was from a good direction, so the waves were small. We could easily get in the water which was totally clear and a perfect coolish temperature. Nippers sits up on a bluff overlooking what is one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen.  It is typical of a Bahama beach, amazing with very few people. The steps down to the beach from Nippers are not a good idea after having too many of their signature rum drinks. We played it safe and went to the beach first. Nippers has good food and a cute double pool with waterfalls and an area with lawn chairs and umbrellas. The buildings and restaurant look like it was not destroyed by the hurricane. It still has some old Bahamian charm; not everything is perfect. They like to blast loud popular music which makes it seem like the coolest place on earth, especially on Sundays when it’s packed with 20 somethings all singing and dancing in the sun.  This past Thursday there was a nice crowd and the music was not terribly loud. We ate our lunches overlooking the Atlantic and got on the 3:15 ferry back to Marsh Harbor with a boat full of working Bahamians going home for the day.

What smells?

We needed to stock up again on groceries for the trip north. I spent most of one day planning a menu and writing a grocery list. I like to have great meals on a passage because it can be hard and the meal is one of the best parts of the day. On Tuesday we walked to the store. People had told us the grocery store in Marsh Harbor was the best in the Bahamas. It was very big, with what looked like everything under the sun. We always shop with a regular backpack, a cooler backpack and several canvas bags. The cooler backpack and regular backpack were stowed in a locker for two weeks while we had quests on board. Al and I separated at first and started to browse the isles and familiarize ourselves with the layout. At one point I smelled something bad and thought “Is it me?” I did not think so. I thought, “It must be this store.” Then Al came by and asked me if he smelled bad. I got close to Al; no, it was not him. I thought “It must be this store.” We did what we could in that store but there were a lot of things on my list they did not have. No chuck roast, no ground pork, no bananas, no decent frozen fish and very few tomatoes. A spoiled American here I am. We got everything packed up in the backpacks and bags and called a cab to get back to the dinghy dock. We managed to buy quite a bit and could make salads and drink club soda mixed with various juices again plus a lot of other things. I’ll adjust the menu and maybe my attitude a little bit too! The mystery of the smelly store was solved when we realized our backpack was the culprit. Some food substance had festered on the backpack bottom while stowed for two weeks. All I can say is, be kind to travelers! Sometimes people are off their game when in a new place. 

Attending Church in Marsh Harbor

We attended the Sunday service at the Anglican/Episcopal church, St John the Baptist. It was a very typical Episcopal style service with a procession, vestments plus a lot of incense. The parishioners were very warm and welcoming and were quite formally dressed. I was glad I wore a nice skirt, but if we go back, I’ll wear something that falls below my knees.  During the Peace, one woman sang an impromptu song and practically everyone in the church was up greeting everyone else. The church was in perfect repair, with fresh paint, multiple minisplit air conditioners and a roof that looked completely new. They were working on fundraising to finish the parish hall next door. We took a taxi from the dinghy dock to the church. When the driver dropped us off, she called out to the Minister who was in the parking lot and asked him to give us a ride back. He said “No problem, that’s fine” but on the way out we told him it wasn’t necessary. He spoke to a parishioner nearby who said she would give us a ride. A lovely young woman introduced herself as Miss Taylor and said she was a local high school teacher. She was new to March Harbor originally from Eleuthera. She told us that Eleuthera was much prettier than the Abacos. So, now we need to go there! Maybe on the next Bahamas trip.

I believe that will be all for today.

We are off to a Bahamian pharmacy this morning because Al has a cold. We’ll see what is available there. I prepared for all types of dire medical scenarios but forgot about the common cold!

I greatly appreciate all the comments and interest in the blog. It is very fun to write about the trip.

Thank you for reading!

Love and Peace,

Fran Lima